Monteverde

There are neighbourhoods that are part of the city.
And then there are some who seem almost to be watching her from a distance.

Monteverde Vecchio It is one of these.

Nestled on the hills between the Gianicolo and Villa Doria Pamphilj, it preserves a more intimate side of Rome, characterised by hills, small villas, tree-lined streets and views that suddenly appear amongst the buildings.

Here, the city seems to change its pace.

The wide thoroughfares give way to more intimate streets, small gardens, early 20th-century façades and that indescribable feeling of still being in the centre of Rome, yet far enough away from its hustle and bustle.

Rome: a city to explore at a leisurely pace

Monteverde Vecchio is a neighbourhood that’s perfect for a stroll.

The streets wind up and down, offering ever-changing views; they open out onto green spaces and then suddenly become urban again.

There are mornings when the neighbourhood seems to belong only to those who live there: the sound of a café opening, someone walking their dog, windows lit up by the sun, and the silhouettes of trees lining the streets.

It’s a beauty that isn’t overly contrived.

He isn’t trying to impress.

It reveals itself.

Greenery as part of everyday life

One of the most fascinating aspects of Monteverde Vecchio is its relationship with nature.

Its proximity to Villa Doria Pamphilj, the Gianicolo and Villa Sciarra make something rare in a major capital city possible: having nature as part of your day, rather than a weekend destination.

A walk can begin amongst the houses and end in the tranquillity of a park.

And this is perhaps one of the neighbourhood’s most authentic luxuries: being able to choose every day between the city and the countryside without really having to give up either.

Homes with their own character

Homes, too, reflect this identity.

Monteverde Vecchio is made up of elegant buildings, small blocks of flats, small villas and flats, which often retain the proportions and details of a bygone era in the city’s history.

Balconies, terraces, windows overlooking greenery, original flooring, high ceilings.

Not necessarily perfect homes.

Rather, homes with character.

And perhaps this is what continues to attract those who choose to live here: the chance to find places that do not seem entirely interchangeable with one another.

A neighbourhood that feels like home

Monteverde Vecchio lacks the theatrics of the historic centre and the formality of Rome’s other elegant neighbourhoods.

It’s more spontaneous.

He has that rare ability to make people feel at home very quickly.

The café where we stop in the morning.
My favourite route home.
A spot from which you can catch a glimpse of the sky above Rome.
The silence of certain streets in the evening.

They may be small details, but ultimately it is precisely these that help build a connection with a neighbourhood.

Near Rome, within Rome

Perhaps its charm stems precisely from a contradiction.

Monteverde Vecchio makes you feel as though you’re far away without actually being so.

Trastevere lies a little further down, the Gianicolo is right next to it, and the historic centre is still nearby. And yet, on the way home, something changes.

The noise subsides.

The streets are becoming greener.

The city seems to allow a little more room for private life.

And it’s a feeling that’s hard to capture on a map.

The charm of something that doesn’t have to prove anything

Monteverde Vecchio isn’t the sort of neighbourhood that needs to constantly be telling people how lovely it is.

Perhaps because those who know him already know this.

It is elegant without being formal, central without being chaotic, and Roman without necessarily being monumental.

It’s a more everyday side of Rome.

The sight of windows open in spring, walks towards Villa Pamphilj, terraces lit up in the evening, and streets I’ve walked down a thousand times that, inexplicably, still seem beautiful.

Because some neighbourhoods are chosen for their location.

Others for services.

Monteverde Vecchio is very often chosen for the feeling it leaves you with when you return home.